Gulpener Korenwolf, Gulpen, Netherlands
Jul 06 '01 (Updated Jul 08 '01)
The Bottom Line Excellent contribution from the often forgotten Netherlands, combining an imaginative mix of grain, fruit and herbs. An aromatic nose leads up to a fruity/herbal flavor with a pleasant banana aftertaste.
Gulpener Korenwolf, Gulpen, Netherlands
Michel Jackson’s Real Beer shipment for July came in the shape of something interesting from the Netherlands, probably the country that most resembles the Belgian brewing scene. Once you get past the likes of Amstel, Heineken and Grolsch, Holland has some of the most imaginative and unique beers in the world.
This one is called Korenwolf and comes from the Gulpener brewery in the town of Gulpen near Maastricht. Maastricht is in the south of Holland and if you see the bottleneck on the map between Belgium and Germany you will understand where this brewery’s influences are coming from.
The Gulpener brewery was established as a farm in 1825 and is currently in its fourth generation of family ownership.
Korenwolf (lit. corn-wolf = hamster)
Type: Belgian Wit
Multi-grain: wheat, barley, rye and spelt.
Hops: Herald (England) and Taurus (Germany)
Additional ingredients: coriander, Curacao, orange peels and elderflowers.
Fermentation: two stages, top and bottom
ABV: My notes and the website say 5% but the bottle says 6.5%.
The first point to note is the imaginative idea of such an industrious creature as a hamster employed in the name and depicted on the label for such a multi-grain brew. I was also surprised that this undergoes both a top, then a bottom fermentation, as it just seemed like an ale to me, but maybe that’s what made it so refreshing.
Tasting Notes
The beer pours to a very pale grapefruit juice color, and is particularly hazy from the wheat (I’m not sure what influence the other grains have on this). There’s a slight white foam that quickly dissipates
When I first opened the bottle, I got an initial cleanliness, but this was quickly overshadowed by a flowery and herbal aroma, with signs of coriander, cloves and cinnamon. It’s certainly a deep, relaxing and aromatic nose.
There’s an initial spritzy carbonation that mellows out and runs very smoothly past the middle, while the body is somewhat medium to light.
Much like the nose, the flavors are light at first, but this is very brief as it turns marginally minty with some orange and lemon fruitiness. It develops a dryness in the middle with a peppery spiciness. Towards the end there’s an interesting herbal flavor with a brief passing of banana (this was certainly more noticeable on the second bottle which I served a little warmer), while the finish shows some bitterness and sourness.
There’s a long lingering aftertaste with the banana coming back a little more. Overall it leaves the palate both refreshed and satisfied.
Verdict
This is an extremely satisfying beer combining the fruity sweetness with a drier herb and peppery finish. Not only is it refreshing, it also carries an extremely flavorful complexity that makes this a quintessential summer brew.
This was another style that was a little new to me, having only previously tried Sam Adams Summer Ale, which claims to be an interpretation of the same style but is very different. I though it did compare closely to Unibroue’s Eau Bénite which is actually a tripel.
It’s an excellent and imaginative blend of ingredients, which I might not be tempted to share as I have with all my previous shipments from The Real Beer Tour
Food
I think this would work well with the spinach salad with hazelnuts and mandarins in a citrus shallot dressing that my restaurant serves up in summer. I find it hard to recommend anything beyond fruits and salads as the flavors in this beer are certainly distinct and may lose something when paired with the wrong dish. Of course, if you’re like me, you won’t worry about food and just be satisfied with a hot afternoon.
Availability
I got mine from the Real Beer Tour, but have seen a few reviews across the web so it may be available elsewhere. You can always check out the Real Beer website from mine though.
Official Website (Flemish only)
http://www.gulpener.nl/
Ratings
Pour: 3/5 Aroma: 9/10 Palate: 4/5 Flavors: 10/10 Overall: 17/20
Score: 4.3
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