"WELCOME COMRADE GRINGO," A GUIDE FOR US VISITORS TO CUBA
Jul 30 '01 (Updated Jan 03 '02)
The Bottom Line If you have to go, go properly.
Well here it is. I've reached another plateau at Epinions, my 200th review. Ok 200th review, rant and or rambling nonsense. I considered doing something special for this, like another "General Comments" piece, but then changed my mind.
I just did not one, but two in the past two months to celebrate my 150th piece here, and that's too many in such a short span. At least it is for me. Others of course seem determined to offer us nothing but. Besides we don't get paid for those rants anymore, so screw that idea.
Checking through the site I noticed, as of today, there are a total of 58 epinions written on and regarding Cuba. Of that number 41 are written by yours truly. That is in addition to reviews written on Cuban cigars by moi, and movie and book reviews set in or based on Cuba. I've even reviewed the National Airline, Cubana.
What I'm getting at is I guess is that I appear to be a sort of self appointed expert on that charming little island paradise. Hey I've been there a couple of times or so. 18 in 8 years if my Passports are to be believed.
Back in the old days when they had category managers here, the Travel Category Manager, made me a featured writer, and noted in the blurb that I was the "Cuba expert." I think he was about to elevate me to the exalted ranks of "expert/advisor", and that's probably what got him canned.
To celebrate my milestone here, I've decided to appoint myself an official Fez wearing Advisor on Cuba. Ok how about Advisor on getting into trouble in Communist Caribbean island nations. Hey I'm already the newly minted "cigar procurer" for Sordid 1's little Fez Brigade (thanks Ken).
In my new exalted position of power, I have decided to provide the ultimate information piece on Cuba yet on this miserable excuse for a web site. Yup, a "how the hell do we get there?" piece. I've seen too many pieces of misinformation here and elsewhere, and it must stop.
This piece is of course directed at those few American readers here. The great majority of us from the rest of the world can chuckle at the trials they have to go through to visit Cuba. Something that is simple and easy for the rest of us to do. We'll of course be chuckling from behind the massive piles of paperwork required to get our hands on a lousy TIN, needed to cash out here.
First of all one simple misconception. It is not illegal for US Citizens to visit Cuba. Got that, IT IS NOT ILLEGAL FOR US CITIZENS TO VISIT CUBA. The "Trading With The Enemy's Act", the official piece of American Government Legislation dealing with this issue does not technically prohibit one from visiting Cuba.
What it does do is prohibit one from spending money there, and/or purchasing and/or importing Cuban goods (read cigars) and services. As it's kind of hard to visit an island nation without blowing a few greenbacks, the overall effect is the same. Prior to 1994-1995, some Americans could argue that by purchasing an all -inclusive air/hotel package from say a third party like a Canadian tour operator, they were in fact not in violation of US law.
They were not spending any money in Cuba, but in Canada, or wherever. What the Canadian tour company then chose to do with their money was of course nobody's business but theirs. Good luck trying that argument in court is all I have to say.
It's a moot point anyway. Around 1994-1995, The Cuban Government began to jack up the cost of the Departure Tax payable by all leaving the country. It went up in increments from $10.00-11.00 to first $15.00, and at present $20.00 US. They also became fed up with it being collected as part of the total cost by the various tour companies and airlines, and being reimbursed by said companies whenever they got around to it.
It became cash on the barrel head as you filed out to the plane. Castro frowns on pan handlers at his airports as well as anywhere else in the country. This is especially so if they happen to be foreign ones. That effectively closed down this rather dubious little loophole.
One can of course apply to visit Cuba with the full blessings of the US Government. Many do each year and special permits are issued. It is like anything involving the Government, a tiresome bureaucratic process.
You also must show just cause as to why you want to go there. Permission is often granted for personal reasons for those with relatives on the island. Other personal or humanitarian reasons are also considered, as are study visits. Naturally journalists are granted, look at the coverage during the Elian episode.
Celebrities seem to have no trouble gaining permission to legally visit Cuba. Kevin Costner recently visited Havana for the premiere of Thirteen Days, as did Stanley Kramer and Benicio del Torro for Traffic. Sydney Pollock was also in Havana for the premier of his aptly named Havana. Finally of course Ted Turner and Jane Fonda were the guests of Fidel Castro when the Baltimore Orioles played the Cuban National Team in 2000.
Surprisingly a large number of American businessmen visit on a regular basis, considering the economic embargo, and the prohibition against trade. Havana like many cities is in the convention business, and many multi national corporations hold meetings and gatherings here for all their personal, including Americans. During my last visit to Havana I bumped into mainly American conventions in two major hotels.
At a restaurant across from the Habana Libre Hotel, we were mistaken for Americans and accorded the appropriate level of service. Our waiter tried to bump up the prices. Later a manager at the five star Dutch run Golden Tulip, advised me that most of the guests there now are business travellers, as opposed to "tourists," including a large number of Americans.
Those that travel officially to Cuba are of course allowed to bring back a limited amount of goods. As far as I know this is limited to $100.00 per person. A twenty six ounce bottle of three year old Havana Club white rum goes for $3.00 US at Havana's Jose Marti Airport's duty free store. However check the list prices of Cuban cigars on this site and see the dilemma this may cause some visitors.
This does lead to some interesting sights. A couple of years back I came across a couple of Yanks blundering through the streets one evening. I pointed them in the direction they wished to go, and even joined them for a beer at the bar they were looking for. The next day I met them at the Golden Tulip for a drink.
In the lobby bar I was treated to the spectacle of a room full of American business types "power smoking" Cohiba Esplendidos. As soon as they finished one, they lit up another. They'd discovered they couldn't "afford" to legally take a box home so were "enjoying" them while they could. It probably didn't help that I'd just finished buying my own cigars and had two full boxes of "Cohibas" that I could legally take home with me.
One can also get to Cuba another legal way. Just hightail it down to your local Armed Forces recruiting centre. Join up for a hitch in the US Navy or Marines and this may eventually get you posted to the US Naval Base at Guantanamo Cuba.
This relic of the Cold War, commonly known as "Gitmo" is technically in Cuba. However in reality it is a self contained little slice of Americana complete with fast food outlets. Even the garbage is shipped out or so I'm told. The miles of barbed wire fences and minefields should also put a damper on any chances to sample any of the numerous tempting vices that socialism offers.
For those not celebrities, with Cuban relatives, and/or unable or unwilling to commit to your nation's defence for a couple of years there remains only one option. That's right you have to sneak in.
Now lets lay a couple of ground rules. First of all I am in no way advocating that you break any of your country's laws. Lets say that one again I AM IN NO WAY ADVOCATING OR ENCOURAGING YOU TO BREAK YOUR NATION'S LAWS.
Having already had one run in with US Customs and Immigration and not wishing to repeat it, I felt I'd better get that down. I may someday want to go back to the states. The really cheap wedding packages in Las Vegas have of late caught my attention for some strange reason.
What follows then is of course only theoretical advice, right. Those whose conscience cannot allow them to continue are now excused. Those staying around, buckle your seatbelts.
GETTING THERE :
The first thing on our agenda is getting there. Fortunately there are several options open dependant on where in the good ole U S of A you presently park your butt. Each has it's own unique advantages and a couple of minor disadvantages.
For those living in the North Eastern part of the US, the most obvious choice is to go through Canada. Various charter packages and regular scheduled airlines (Air Canada, Cubana) depart from Toronto and Montreal. In high season there is almost a flight a day from these locations to various spots on the islands. To a lesser extent Halifax and Ottawa also offer some direct service during high season.
For the most part these flight are to the major beach resort destinations of Varadero, Guardalavaca, Santa Lucia, Cayo Coco etc. However the flights usually land at the nearest civil airport and air only packages can be bought to such cities as Cienfuegos, Holguin, Manzanillo, and Camaguey. There are also several flights a week to either Havana and/or Santiago de Cuba, the two largest cities on the island, either with or without hotel packages.
One distinct advantage of going through Canada is you pay in Canadian dollars. With our looney sitting at about 63-65% of its US counterpart this is a major selling point. I've seen low season sell offs for one week, air, hotel, all inclusive (food and booze) properties for as little as $500-$600 Canadian, plus taxes. You do the math.
Even adding on the cost of the flight to Toronto or Montreal this is still a bargain. Incidentally many Cuban properties charge either minimal or no single supplement.
It should also be noted that western Canadian cities such as Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, and Winnipeg also offer packages to Cuba. They are on a more limited basis and usually are routed through Toronto, but are an alternative for those with easy access to those places.
One drawback to using this route is that you may have a hard time explaining that all over tan to US authorities after claiming you were on a ski vacation in Quebec in January. I met a Yank in Acapulco one year who got nailed crossing back over at Detroit after a week in Varadero.
US Customs didn't believe it was wind burn, and a further search ensured. His pathetic excuse that he was skiing in his bathing suit and hence the tan lines didn't pass muster. A search of his bags then produced several bottles of Havana Club and a couple of boxes of Cohibas. Incidentally that's what he was doing in Mexico, using it as his transit point to Cuba.
For those in the Southern US, your options are several. You can gain access from any of several third countries. Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic is a good spot. Several travel agencies there offer packages. A Dominican vacation is also a good "cover."
There is also regular air service from Montego Bay Jamaica to Santiago de Cuba. In fact hotels and resorts in Santiago offer day long excursions to Jamaica as an excursion for their guests. There should be no problem in reversing this.
Nassau in the Bahamas is another well used transit point. I have been advised that US Customs habitually watch the AeroCaribe and Cubana desks at the airport, especially after a flight from the US arrives. It might be a good idea to be a little discrete and spend a night in Nassau before proceeding on to Havana.
For those in the South West there are also several potions open. First and foremost is Mexico. It is possible to book flights and/or hotels from Tijuana, Acapulco, Mexico City and Cancun. As in Canada you'll be paying in devalued Mexican Pesos and should get a bargain.
There may be a language barrier, but your ultimate destination is a Spanish speaking country and you should have taken this into account. Incidentally I stayed at a Mexican run property in Santa Lucia Cuba in 1999 and had no complaints.
It is also possible to transit through any other Central American country. Costa Rica is an excellent choice. Cubana has a large office in San Jose the Capital, and the daily papers are always full of package deals to Havana. In using any of these locations, you should not have the problem of explaining that tan to the authorities on your return home.
Those living in the Pacific North West and the centre of the country have more limited options open to them. Basically best bet here is to either us one of the Western Canadian gateway cities already noted, or leave the states form one of the other regions and use the most convenient entry point already noted.
In fact one is not really limited as to where one departs. Someone from Texas may prefer to travel via Nassau and someone from Boston may find it convenient to go through Cancun. On my last visit there we met a couple from Florida who had flown in via Toronto. The connecting flight from Fort Lauderdale to Toronto was as long as the one from Toronto to Cienfuegos.
GETTING IN/GETTING OUT :
All visitors to Cuba require a valid Passport. For US citizens born in the states all that will be required is
a valid US Passport. Naturalised US Citizens and foreign residents holding other Passports may require other documentation. It is best to check either with the Cuban Tourist Board or Consulate prior to booking.
US Citizens born in Cuba do require special permission and documents. I don't recommend this manner of travelling for this group. Usually they have "little" problem securing official permission to visit family as earlier noted.
For tourists a Visa is not required. Those travelling for business, investment purposes, or as accredited journalists may require further paperwork. For simple tourism a tourist card is all, that is required. It is valid for 60 days, and is usually issued by the tour company or airline when booking your ticket.
Be careful filling it out. It has been my experience that some immigration officers are very inflexible on this. If not filled out correctly, you will be forced to fill out a new one. Oh of course you will be forced to pay for this new one on the spot.
Cuban officials will not stamp your Passport unless you specifically request them to do so. This applies to all Passports and not just American ones. This is done as a courtesy, in case a traveller later visits the states.
Similar procedures at one time existed for such nations as Israel, South Africa, and Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). They instead stamp your tourist card which is clipped to your passport and removed when you exit the country.
You will find a small nondescript "air plane" stamp discretely in the back of your Passport. This is the only indication of your trip and cannot be identified as Cuban. It actually resembles something a child with a play stamp set might use.
In any case US citizens do not require a Passport to visit many of the transit countries I've noted. Birth Certificate and photo Identification such as a drivers licence are all that is required. This can be used to return to the US from this place , and your Passport remains in your pocket.
A mandatory departure tax, at present $20.00 US, is payable for all leaving Cuba via an airport. It is payable in cash at a window immediately before you clear immigrations and customs. Don't pay, don't leave. Oh yeah you'll also need the second half of your Tourist Card to get stamped again and then turned in.
Tourists are allowed to bring in goods that they would normally be expected to use on their trip, clothing sundries etc. Anything above and beyond this, gifts etc. will be subject to a very high duty. My experiences with this is that the onus is on you to prove that whatever you bring in is for your own use and will be leaving with you.
I've got through with twenty bars of soap, a dozen bottles of shampoo and four pairs of jeans for one week, by claiming they were all mine. Last trip I saw a guy trying to bring in a large jar of mayonnaise, and arguing with Customs. Trying to bring in a DVD player as a gift for your Tio Pedro is probably not good idea. There appears to be no limit to the amount of cash you can import. It is illegal to export Cuban currency.
Those arriving on air only, that is without a hotel, or resort package, may be required to show proof of one nights hotel reservation. This is especially so in Havana. Failure to have this may mean they'll insist you make one before you clear Immigration. They'll helpfully give you a list of Havana's most expensive hotels to choose from.
Play it safe and book at least one night. Cubanacan and Horizonte's web sites are useful, for this. Make sure you get some sort of confirmation to show if needed.
Leaving the country has been simplified over the past few years. You can export two boxes of cigars without having to show receipts. Above that limit and you'll be expected to show proof you purchased them in an official Government store. Similar arrangements, to the best of my knowledge exist for other "souvenirs."
Final note Cuban authorities take a hard stance on pornography. Leave the latest issue of Penthouse at home. I've even had my copy of Maxim almost confiscated.
Likewise this is not a good country to make a few "home movies" with your cam corder. Especially if they star some of the locals. Certain "anti government" literature may also be disallowed. To be on the safe side leave your copy of Soldier of Fortune Magazine in the departure lounge along with the Penthouse .
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY :
There is enough written about this subject elsewhere on this site by myself and others already. So we'll dispense with it for now. I've listed my reviews of various hotels and Casa Particulars here already. Likewise where to and where not to eat.
WHAT TO DO THERE, THINGS TO SEE :
Ok lets be honest, if I need to really explain this one to you, do everyone a favour and stay home. Seriously again check out the numerous well written articles elsewhere here. You can also check out my stuff too.
MONEY :
Ok first the good news. The official currency in Cuba, at least as far as visitors are concerned is the US Dollar. I realise the irony in this considering the fact that the two countries have not been on speaking terms for four decades, but hey chalk it up to the power of the US greenback.
There is of course a Cuban Peso, or the Moneida Nacional but chances are you won't come into contact with it. Exchange rates stand at about 30:1. In Cuba's Government regimented economy, anything that can be bought with pesos is strictly rationed, and to be honest not worth the effort.
You may find a use for having some Pesos for public transportation and ice cream cones, coffees, and/or some soft drinks from street vendors. You may even get away with paying for a simple meal in a Pesos only restaurant if you speak fluent Spanish and can pass for a local, but don't count on it. Odds are almost everything you'll want or need is priced in dollars.
That's the good part, no wasting time lined up in banks to exchange currency, and or getting ripped off by the service charges at hotel front desks. Now for the bad news. Because of the present economic and political embargo, the US really doesn't recognise Cuba. This means that US based banks and credit card companies don't recognise Cuba. This means that your wallet full of ATM cards and credit cards are virtually useless.
No credit card, travellers cheque etc. issued from a US bank will be honoured in Cuba. They simply can't get reimbursed for any charges. Point to note, this also applies to American Express cards, and travellers' cheques, and City Bank Visa, cards issued from third party countries like Canada.
Cuba, as the locals joke, is the one place in the world where "you can leave home without it."There are also no working ATM's in Cuba. There area couple in and around of Havana, but as of my last visit they were not operational. It's doubtful that they will accept US cards if and when they are up and running.
This technically means that those staying at all inclusive resort, where there is little need for money aside for tips, souvenirs and your departure tax will not be too put out. These places also have in room safes or safety deposit boxes at the front desk to secure your bankroll.
Those travelling independently around the country may not relish the idea of carrying a large bankroll. Cuba is a fairly safe country to visit. However the average working wage translates out to about $20.00 US per month, and people are only human.
Fortunately there is a solution. Transcard. Transcard is simply a debit card you purchase. You "load" it up with US currency, and then access it as required while in Cuba.
It is wildly accepted at Intur and other "hard currency" stores, hotels etc. Basically most places that will accept credit cards usually have the Transcard symbol in the window at well. As far as I know the International Banks will even allow one to draw a cash advance on it in the same manner as a credit card. At least I've seen the Transcard sticker in their windows beside those for Visa and Mastercard.
Some Cuban's residing abroad use Transcard as a safe and efficient means to send money to their relatives on the island. I am sure that if or when the ATMs are up and running , that they will accept Transcards in the same manner as credit cards. Contact info on Transcard is included at the end of this review.
HEALTH, SAFETY, AND OTHER GENERAL PROBLEMS :
Cuba has an excellent health care system, with free medical care for all. At least that's how it works in theory. The infrastructure still exists, but the economic situation has placed severe limits on how it actually functions and delays and shortages are common.
For foreigners though the standards are still maintained. International Clinics in all major cities and resort areas service tourists and other foreigners on a cash basis and in "hard currency, " US Dollars. The service is excellent.
In fact I'm aware of many Canadians who have travelled to Cuba for routine medical procedures because they can be performed there faster than in Canada. That is to say they circumnavigate the waiting lists up here and are of the same quality. The fact that the billed cost is often actually less that what our health care authorises for out of country medical treatment is an added bonus.
Cuba is for the most part a safe country to travel in. Both the Government and populace in general are so aware of how important tourism is to the economy that great pains are taken to ensure tourists are treated well and will return. Petty crime and the normal scams that one may find in any country do exist and the traveller should as always be alert.
In my experience though the risk factor is much less than in other destinations, even in the large cities, although there are pickpockets on the Havana buses. You can get into trouble here if you want to, but you have to go looking for it. General common sense as in all things should be applied here.
For American citizens who do get into problems in Cuba though you have limited options for assistance. There is of course no US Embassy in Havana. Well actually there is, but it has been unoccupied for forty years. There is a small US Interests Section attached to the Swiss Embassy. How helpful they could be to a US citizen in distress, especially one who is not "technically" authorised to be there is questionable.
The Canadian or British Embassies may be able or willing to assist you. A common courtesy that exists between the three nations in other places around the world. A misplaced or lost Passport however may be a serious problem.
WHAT TO BRING BACK :
Cuba is not really a shopper's paradise. There are plenty of local handicrafts and art work, some of very good quality and reasonably priced. For those into it, Che Guevera memorabilia is wildly available. His image adorns everything from T-Shirts to Bic lighters.
Rum is an obvious choice. There are plenty of varieties available to suit most tastes and wallets. For who prefer another form of beverage, I can highly recommend the local coffee. It is packaged by and distributed by Cubita. I should caution you it is strong.
Finally there is cigars. For those intending on buying some, especially those who are not avid smokers already, I would strongly recommend buying from the authorised stores and dealers. For those who insist on looking for a deal on the street, then I would advise reading mine or other individual's articles on the subject here.
Remember though this trip is an unofficial one. Technically you were never in Cuba right. A suitcase full of bottles of Havana Club, boxes of Cohiba Esplendidos, and Che T-Shirts discovered by US Customs may defeat any attempts at subterfuge, and will in the words of one immortal Cubano leave you with "some splaining to do." I personally find my best souvenir to be the pleasant memories, perhaps backed up by a few photos.
Well that's it. I will post other articles on how to get around, and more on accommodations in the future if there's any interest. As I said, I in no way advocate breaking any US statutes on travel to Cuba here. This is general information which may or may not assist you only if you have made the decision to go of your own free will.
There are now 59 articles on Epinions on Cuba. I've written 42 of them.
SOME USEFUL WEB SITE AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS
TRANSCARD:
www.transcardinter.com Tel:(905) 305-7703
SOME TORONTO BASED TRAVEL AGENCIES WITH PACKAGES TO CUBA:
Sears Travel:
1-800-799-6466 www.sears.ca
Sun Hollidays:
www.sunholidays.ca
Bel Air Travel:
1-800-465-4631 www.belairtravel.com
Air Brokers Direct:
1-888-556-7777 www.yourtravelbroker.com
Air Transat:
1-888-872-6728 www.transat.com
CUBAN HOTELS/RESORTS AND OTHER GENERAL INFO SITES:
Cubanacan Hotels:
http://www.cuba.tc/cubanacan.htm
LTI international Hotels(Cuba):
http://www.cuba.tc/ltI.htm
Horizonte Hotels:
http://www.cuba.tc/horizonteshotels.htm
Gran Caribe Hotels: http://www.cuba.tc/GranCaribe/CuGranCaribeHome.html
Sol Melia Hotels (Cuba):
http://www.cuba.tc/SolMelia.htm
CUBAN TOURIST BOARD OFFICES:
Canada:
440 Blvd Rene Levesque, Suite 1105,
Montreal PQ H2Z 1V7 Tel: (514) 875-8004
55 Queen St East, Suite 705, Toronto ON
M5C 2R6 (416) 362-0700
Mexico:
Insurgentes Sur 421 y Aquascalientes,
Complejo Aristos, Edificio B, Local 310,
Mexico DF 06100 Tel: 52/5-574 9651
UK:
145 Shaftesbury Ave, London WC2H 8JT
Tel: 020/7240 6655
cubatoristboard.london@virgin.net
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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