"COME IN MY PRETTIES" LA BRUJA BAR JACO BEACH
Aug 22 '01 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line A nice laid back place to rest weary bones after trying to prove you're still "twentysomething" body surfing.
Jaco Beach is a young town. That is obvious the minute you set foot in the place. The bars, cafes and streets are full of twenty something's doing all those things young people do on vacation. Costa Rica does like to bill itself as good retirement destination and every year thousands of Americans, Canadians and Europeans flock here to enjoy their "sunset years." Most don't come to Jaco though. If they do they seem to keep a low profile, or at least they did during the four days I was there.
I was really beginning to feel my age as I wandered around among a community that was half my age. There were the locals with businesses, that catered to their own age group like surf board shops. The "tourists" included large numbers of young and affluent "Josefinos" who flock down the highway from the capital for a little weekend debauchery on the beach.
Finally there was the international back pack brigade. Youths from all over the world searching for whatever it is that you travel around the world searching for at that age. It's been so long since I did it I forget what it was. I can't even remember if I found it. Probably not because I'm still travelling.
The age gap became really obvious in the evenings when I went for a drink or two. Loud music and a youthful crowd are ok, but I was soon feeling out of place. I was almost resigned to spending my evenings propping up the hotel bar when I found out one of Jaco's secrets. The place where the old fogies go to drink, La Bruja, Bar Y Restaurante, "The Witches Bar."
La Bruja is an elegant laid back place right on the main drag and about dead in the centre of town. It's easy to find wedged in amongst other bars, restaurants, gift shops and travel agencies. There is a high thatched Palapya style roof, with a large witch riding a broom painted on it. Trust me you can't miss the place. If you do then maybe you shouldn't be looking for another bar at that point.
The place is quiet, dark and rather elegant inside. A nice change from the loud booming kiddie hangouts up the street. The owner operators, Simon and Jeanette are easy going and friendly. Especially to lost middle aged travel writers I guess.
There is a brick oven/fireplace over in corner, although I could never imagine it getting cold enough to need or use it. The large circular bar contains a good selection of local and international brands among its ranked bottles. There is a full menu available. There are quite a few circular couches and table and chairs scattered about big enough to accommodate a small group of friends.
Perhaps one of the most interesting things about the place is the "air conditioning." After a bit who become aware that there is a soft cooling breeze coming from somewhere. A quick look up at the high peaked ceiling with its crossed wooded beams gives the answer.
Rather than use an air conditioner or even old fashioned ceiling fans they've come up with something unique. Several old brooms have been tied to a central pole which rotates around something like a windmill. It is as effective as it is subtle., gently circulating the air around the room.
While La Bruja was listed in my guide book as both a good restaurant and quiet bar, it wasn't until I'd been there a couple of days that I found the place. Posters around town advertising live entertainment caught my eye and I promptly showed up one night after dinner. The featured entertainer that night was Benjamin am expat from Arkansas who makes his home in Jaco. His life style and repertoire of songs really suite the place.
Benjamin states he gets gigs five night a week at various places and could get more but that's enough for him. I'm sure that's only in high season, but I know of several local musicians who would be extremely envious of that much work. I hope I don't start an exodus of Toronto artists with this.
Midway through his second set I was convinced that this was the bar for me. I got confirmation a few minutes later. A large group of elegantly dressed young affluent Josefinos came wandering in. The grabbed a table and oblivious of the entertainment continued with their conversation. The rest of us in the bar were enjoying the mood and music, while they gaily chattered on, either with each other or on their cell phones. These by the way I'm convinced every Josefino is born with.
Eventually the penny dropped and they realised that this was probably not the place they wanted, at least not for another ten to twenty years. They merrily disappeared into the night probably heading for one of the towns several discos. Those of us who remained in La Bruja were allowed to return to our peace and quiet and tranquil enjoyment.
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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