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BUYING CARPETS IN FEZ

Mar 14 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)

The Bottom Line Only recommended for the serious bargain hunter with nerves of steel.

"So which one do you like?"

The question was phrased with exaggerated charm, yet I knew I was in trouble. Only a few hours earlier I had been happily exploring the medieval maze like streets of Fez. Now I was trapped in the back of this carpet dealer's shop with no escape.

We had already exchanged pleasantries. He had offered me both mint tea, and a detailed demonstration of the quality, history, and construction of his wares. Now it was crunch time and I was crumbling fast.

I knew I wanted a carpet, and like a predator he sensed my weakness. It was however only my second day in Morocco, and I had rightly decided to both limit my spending, and how much I would have to lug around the country. It was no good the carpets were beautiful and the sales pitch was way too seductive. Frantically I called on all my powers to come up with acceptable excuses so I could leave with honour all round maintained.

"I really don't think I have enough on me, sorry." I said knowing the odds of finding an ATM in that maze were nonexistent even for him.

"Not to worry, my friend, I accept all major credit cards. Now what currency will you be paying in?" He purred as he produced a price list in almost every major currency in the world and happily began to calculate that day's exchange rates for me.

"I don't know if customs in my country will allow me import such an ancient and beautiful work of art?" I chimed back feebly.

Whereby he then produced a list of all the needed customs regulations for not only my country but several others and again disarmed my feeble defense.

"Honestly It would be too bulky to carry around for the rest of my stay in your wondrous country, otherwise.. ."

A simple wave of his hands and an assistant appeared and the carpet at my feet was magically transformed into a compact bundle that I could have fit into my carry on.

"Of course if you would prefer we could arrange shipping for you at a reasonable cost. Then you could take both of the ones' you have been admiring."

Damn not only that defense gone, but he had noted that I was torn between two carpets and had sensed that indecision was my next tactic.

I was sinking fast here, time for desperate measures. I managed to distract him for a brief second by drawing attention to one of my fellow travelers. That hapless person seated beside me had been watching my discomfort with a mixture of mirth, relief, and dread, knowing full well they were the next victim.

While the carpet salesman's attention was diverted, I abandoned all sense of decorum. I grabbed my jacket and fled the shop. I'm sorry, but it had become every man for themselves in there.

Three days later in Marrakech I bought two carpets. They were smaller than the ones in Fez, not quite as nice and probably cost me more.

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