The Best Portland Getaway
Written: Sep 25 '06
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Great rooms, a ton to see and do, and ghosts!
Cons: A lot of stairs, many things are for adults.
The Bottom Line: With its big rooms, concentration on simple pleasures, art, and attractions, Edgefield is a great place to stay.
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| HaplessChild's Full Review: Edgefield |
McMenamins is a local company best known for purchasing old and abandoned buildings that are remarkable in some way, and converting them into hotels, pubs, and breweries. Edgefield, located just east of Portland in Troutdale, is a 95 year old estate that has been a poor farm, a nursing home, and the gate of Hell (I will get to that later)… It now sits as one of McMenamins finest achievements, a must-stay for visitors to Portland, and a nice mini vacation for residents of Oregon.
Behold the beast that is Edgefield!
The main house/hotel is a massive three-story Gregorian –style structure. There is also a second small house for lodging, a smaller brick house which is a pub with live acts, a bigger structure which houses a bar, several restaurants, a movie theater, a golf course, a glass-blowing shed, pottery shed, a garden, a giant event building, acres of green space to explore, and a winery! There is so much to do and see here that staying overnight or making several trips is required.
Getting there:
Edgefield is located along Halsey- a major Northeast Portland street. Highway 84 will also get you very close, and for the car-free among us, there is a bus that stops directly in front of the Edgefield driveway. You can make it from Portland in 15 minutes or less. The site overlooks a farm field, and is itself enclosed by very tall shrubbery. When you start hitting patches of farm I suggest slowing a bit or you might miss the Edgefield wooden sign peaking out onto the road. Once you have made it down the driveway you will find ample parking, but none of it is covered.
The artistry of the main house:
One of the best things about a McMenamins is that they hire artists to cover every square inch of the place in art. There are mosaics, sculptures, murals, and random creations on every wall, door, space of ceiling, and sometimes floor everywhere you go. During daylight hours any visitor could spend hours roaming the floors just to see it all.
Most of the art has a direct relation to the history of the place. While the building was abandoned many vandals broke in and left a giant homage to Satan in one of the rooms. You will find hints of this story, and the exorcism that the builders had a local group of bagpipers perform, in some of the pictures. Also look for bees, black rabbits, and past residents.
Staying in a room:
I have stayed three times at Edgefield, and dined there multiple times. It is hard not to want to stay overnight every time you go, because even though the air in Portland is pretty clean, the second you arrive at Edgefield you feel as if you are way out in the country somewhere, away from everything urban. The porches invite leisurely naps and quiet conversation, and the lights are kept dim, providing a feeling of comfort. Guests are dressed in typical Portland casual layers, unless it is a holiday. You ascend the stairs and walk into the small lobby to register, and it will become clear that the creators of this space want to let the building be the star. The employees were all very quiet, but very helpful with any of our questions or requests.
Edgefield offers several room options- most of which run well under $100.00 a night. Some rooms can sleep up to 6 people in a room, and there is also a hostel on site for $30.00 a day. I recommend checking for packages which can include dinner, breakfast, an hour massage, beer, wine tasting, or golf. Edgefield flourishes around holidays, so booking early is also recommended. Be advised that there are also a lot of stairs to climb. The first and second levels, however, are wheelchair accessible.
All of the rooms I have stayed in or seen are huge spaces, which have also been used as a canvas for the artists. Each room has a unique theme, and the rooms are filled with antique furniture and have hardwood floors. Edgefield provides robes and very comfy beds. Notice I did not mention television sets, phones, or alarm clocks. When you stay at Edgefield, the intention is to escape modern society… except for the fact that they do offer free WiFi! They also delivered the Sunday paper to my door both times I stayed there.
The thing that frightens most visitors is that only a handful of rooms have bathrooms. Most visitors need to rely on the European-style bathroom areas, which are basically a room filled with smaller rooms which have toilets, baths, and showers in them. I never had a hard time getting into one- and the doors DO lock- and the bath areas were very clean and stocked with ample towels.
What is the other thing that frightens visitors? Edgefield is allegedly very haunted, often making lists of most haunted hotels in America.
Also inside the main house:
The Black Rabbit Restaurant is the jewel of all McMenamins restaurants. They are open on the main level of the main house for all three meals, but can fill up fast so reservations are recommended. High wooden booths, small candles, and plain white table cloths allow one to concentrate on more interesting artwork and the great food which is often prepared with ingredients grown on-site. There is an adjacent bar offers more seating ,and serves much of the same menu- which is comprised of American cuisine with a Northwest influence. The calamari is great, as are the steaks. The average dinner will run around $50-60 dollars depending on your alcohol or dessert intake.
Beyond the Back Rabbit, there is an area where you can get massages, and a gift shop filled with Edgefield’s wine and many interesting items. The gift shop also serves coffee, and a book on the history of Edgefield. I recommend buying the book before you even get to your room and looking it over as it enriches your stay with little inside secrets and history. Also look on the higher levels of the main house for reading areas, the ballroom, and event spaces.
Some of my favorite areas beyond the hotel:
The Winery is very dark and sprinkled with Christmas lights and candles. There are huge glass window which allow one to peer into the wine barrels, and several great spots for sitting and enjoying some wine. The space above the winery, which is in the main house, is supposedly very haunted.
The Movie Theater shows second run films for less than five dollars. You can also buy food and drink at the bar and eat while watching the movie! They have a children’s movie in the afternoon, but the night showing requires you to be 21 and over.
The Loading Dock Grill is the newest addition to Edgefield’s restaurants. They overhauled the courtyard in the center of the garden, the theater, and the main house into a stone-floored outside dining area. Serving the same food as the bar does (American- burgers, sandwiches, and smokes meats), this is a great place to eat when the weather permits.
The Gorge Glashaus is open daily, but check for specific times with the front desk. You can purchase many glass creations, and actually watch the glass blowing process.
Edgefield has lots of live music throughout the year in various locations around the estate. A lot of it is also free! Other don’t miss events include the yearly Saint Patrick’s Day celebration, the Celebration of Syrah (a wine event), the Halloween and New Years Eve parties, and great buffets for Easter and Thanksgiving. The website for Edgefield with events, rates, and menus can be found at www.mcmenamins.com.
To sum it up:
Edgefield is a mini vacation. Things appear lazy and rural, but there is so much to do and see that you will not get bored if you don’t feel like just lounging around. As a day trip or an overnight stay, I highly recommend Edgefield to anyone!
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
HaplessChild
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Member: Natalie
Location: Portland, OR
Reviews written: 87
Trusted by: 72 members
About Me:
Sleep well, weep well, go to the deep well.
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