|
|
|
Comment |
Sorted by
Date Written |
Re: The amp is the problem, not the subs (Reply to this comment)
by war-pig
"The reason your subs blew was becuase you weren't putting enough power through them."
The subs did not blow... they electrically work fine... however the cheap construction and poor design was unable to hold up to the physical beating they were giving themselves even under only a moderate load.
"Electricity flows through the voice coil and heats it up, but the cone does not move as far or as fast as it us supposed to. The movement of the cone is what pulls cold air into the center of the voice coil and pushes hot air out, thus cooling the voice coil. That is why there is an opening in the back of the sub, that is what the sub vents through."
Being an Electronics technician since about 1988 or so and specializing in car audio, more specifically, component level repair of Amplifiers, Head Units and signal processors/EQ's.
Although I admit I am not a speaker tech, I I've been around long enough to understand perfectly how and why a speaker is designed how it is. I've seen many subs and I have never seen any self destruct like these 4 did. Typically voice coil failure (like you seem to think, for some reason, my speakers failed from) occurs far in advance of a speaker physically coming to pieces, which is why they really failed. If they were designed using better materials (specifically, the material the spider is made from) and construction techniques (specifically, not using unevenly applied and insufficient epoxy to glue a piece of plastic to a piece of aluminum) I am sure they would still be alive today, and my review would have been a whole lot different. Take a look at the construction yourself. I don't know if recently they have made improvements (I sure hope so) but my 4 ALUM12's look like they were built by a 12 year old Taiwanese girl
"Overheating of the voice coil will cause damage just like what happened to your subs."
I'm not sure I understand how overheated voice coil(s) cause epoxy joints to break or a cloth/fibrous material to rip into two pieces (both physical defects) I need some more clarification on this.
I think you misunderstood one of my comments in my review as being a defective voice coil because I mentioned a symptom of a buzzing/scraping sound was heard. Read my review closer... this scraping buzzing sound was created by the fact that the spider material had partially ripped and the motor structure was not being suspended properly/evenly causing a sinking on one side of the cone. In turn because of the tight tolerance of the bobbin structure something in the bobbin structure was scraping due to the angle the cone was sitting at.
"I understand your thinking in that if a subwoofer cannot handle much less power than what it is rated at, then the sub is bad, but in the world of car audio, that is an invalid comment because of what I just explained."
That comment is irrelevant because the failure had nothing to do with a heat related voice coil failure like you just explained, it was purely a physical failure.
"These are good subs if you amplify them properly. They are not the best 1000rms subs available, but they are not very far off."
Unless Audiobahn has drastically improved the materials and build quality on this model in the past 3 years I cannot agree with ALUM12's being good subs. I was happy with their sound for the most part and if they were not built so cheaply they definitely would have the potential to be good subs, but not how my 4 were built back in 02. I admit it... I tried to save some cash and gave Audiobahn a shot. It was a BAD decision. I then decided to shell out the cash and replace the ALUM12's with 4 Stillwater Designs Kicker Solo-Baric L7's in a dual iso-group isobarik push/pull configuration. I have been using this config for 3 years now and have not had a single problem, except that the car is getting to be a rattlebox now from all that hard hitting tight bass. I think I need to torque down the screws.
|
Mar 12 '05
3:29 am PST
|
|
The amp is the problem, not the subs (Reply to this comment)
by forinstdof2
You should not write a review of a subwoofer that is not powered properly. If a sub is rated at 1000 rms then it should receiver with 50rms of that amount. The reason your subs blew was becuase you weren't putting enough power through them. Electricity flows through the voice coil and heats it up, but the cone does not move as far or as fast as it us supposed to. The movement of the cone is what pulls cold air into the center of the voice coil and pushes hot air out, thus cooling the voice coil. That is why there is an opening in the back of the sub, that is what the sub vents through. Overheating of the voice coil will cause damage just like what happened to your subs. I understand your thinking in that if a subwoofer cannot handle much less power than what it is rated at, then the sub is bad, but in the world of car audio, that is an invalid comment because of what I just explained. These are good subs if you amplify them properly. They are not the best 1000rms subs available, but they are not very far off.
|
Jan 28 '05
2:18 pm PST
|
|
|
|
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.