Les Hautes Terres - Thankfully Close to Madagascar's International Airport
Written: Nov 08 '09 (Updated Nov 08 '09)
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Pros: Close to the airport and a free pick up service.
Cons: Expensive (for Madagascar) and no great shakes.
The Bottom Line: It has no "wow" but Les Haute Terres in Madagascar's Antananarivo is handy for the airport, clean and tidy. A reasonable choice for a first or final night's stay.
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| cr01's Full Review: Les Haute Terres, Antananarivo, Madagascar |
As we were meeting up with our tour guide early the following morning, and had travelled all day from the UK, we were keen to stay somewhere in or near, Tana (Antananarivo), the capital of Madagascar for our first evening.
Unfortunately, the UK Foreign Office told us the centre of Tana was for essential travel only (because of regular protests against the new President), meaning we might not be insured if we stayed there. As it turned out, the trouble in Tana was nothing like as bad as reported so we would have happily stayed in the centre of town. However, being innocent of the realities we chose the apparently safer district near Tana airport.
Although many hotels in Madagascar are cheap ($25 will get you a clean, good but modest room) by Western standards, hotels near Tana airport are pricy. I finally fell upon Les Hautes Terres (English: The Highlands), at 80 Euros a night ($120), which included a free taxi transfer from the Airport. That the hotel, with its big Gothic stonework, and strange angular shape looked a little like something out of Rocky Horror transported to the plains of Madagascar fed my curiosity, and the deal was done.
A welcome sight
At Tana airport a taxi driver stood amongst the crowds holding a board with my name on it. Having someone waiting meant we avoided the battle of the Porters keen to carry our luggage for a tip.
Our hotel was about 3 miles down the road from the airport on the main road, and although we knew Madagascar would be something of a culture shock, this road was fairly prosperous with a number of tourist hotels dotted along its length.
Our Hotel
Les Haute Terres Hotel is just on the edge of the main road, with 24 hour security to stop undesirables from wandering in.
We entered into a very cavernous lobby, bar and restaurant area; made a little more eerie because of the very few guests at the hotel. The hotel looked over a large paddy field at the back, with wandering cows, chickens and geese. Tana has paddy fields extending into the centre of town, and although atmospheric, malaria carrying mosquitoes are a problem in Tana (although not excessively so). In the night, it was nice to hear the croaking of frogs from the fields.
The restaurant area reminded me rather of the Middle East with large plush red cushioned seating, dark wooden flooring, and fancy plasterwork. A nod to Africa came in the form of traditional carved wooden masks and phallic figures dotted around. Really noticeable was the amount of space in the room; tables looked like random rafts in a sea of wooden flooring.
The hotel also offers a Pool room (of the billiards type, rather than the swimming!), and upstairs another public room full of model sailing ships and a prepared dining table for two. Very strange indeed! The hotel was very clean and tidy overall, and the staff friendly and helpful if rather reserved. They seemed to be content to let me wander round the large empty and slightly strange hotel, rather than proactively ask if I wanted anything.
Upstairs, our bedroom was similarly spacious; our large double bed was surrounded by a large columned octangle about 15 feet square. I imagined some satanic rites being performed over me in the night. Also was another large area with table and chairs, safe and (empty) fridge. A small TV was by the bed. Air con was available, although on the fairly high plains it wasn't unbearably hot, and as energy is scarce in Madagascar we didn't use it.
Our room was modern if a little underwhelming, and furnished in pale colours with pale biscuit curtains. The windows shut tightly to reduce Mosquito invasion. While there were no nets, we were given a coil to burn, which we found adequate. We had a great view around the hotel, with 6 windows we had views onto the road, the car park, and the paddy fields beyond. Overall, it gave a great light.
The bathroom was a rather strange affair, the "throne" toilet was positioned up a number of steps, and the shower was also about 2 feet above normal ground level. After my shower, I had to step very carefully down the wet tiles to room level. The shower had poor water pressure, but unusually for a country where running hot water is a luxury, it wasn't simply a hand held device (to reduce the amount of water used).
Food & Meals
We did have a little scout around the hotel, but didn't spot anywhere better to dine. Our evening meal was reasonable (I had simple chicken and chips) and cheap (at around $4.50 a head). Order an hour or so before you want to eat; service is so relaxed it is almost horizontal. The Madagascan wine is appalling; stick to the local Three Horses beer (here around £2.25 a large bottle, but around $1.50 in other places).
Continental Breakfast was very filling, and again around $4.50 a head. The prices put paid to my suspicion that we were to be fleeced for food.
Summing up
Overall, we were comfortable in our hotel, and particularly welcomed the easy access to it after our long flight. Likewise, it was good that we could eat a reasonable meal and enjoy a couple of beers without having to leave the hotel while we were so tired.
On the other hand, it was hardly a cracking place and the standard of the furnishings etc although reasonable wasn't stunning for the money. I suspect it was fairly standard for that type of "close to the airport" hotel. As such, I wouldn't necessarily rush back to this hotel for any future trip, but neither will I actively suggest you choose somewhere else
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cr01 asserts his right to be associated as the author of this review -2009-
Recommended:
No
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cr01
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Member: Chris
Location: Yorkshire, England
Reviews written: 442
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In snowy Yorkshire. Dusting down the Sledge.
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