Natchez....A Personal Pilgrimage
Written: Feb 13 '05 (Updated Nov 20 '05)
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Pros: An outstanding collection of antebellum buildings survives in this little river city
Cons: Natchez may not appeal to everyone, limited access without an automobile
The Bottom Line: Natchez is well worth a visit if you appreciate history or architecture. It hasn't yet been ruined by commercialism.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Natchez, Mississippi |
Having spent a part of my youth in Natchez, I'll always have a place in my heart for this beguiling little river city. Natchez sits high on a bluff above the roiling, muddy, Mississippi River. The city above was always removed in many senses from the rough-and-tumble of the river port below, known as Natchez-Under-the-Hill. In truth, it has been a few years since I have returned to Natchez, but I'd like to offer a few points of interest.
Most tourists visit Natchez in the springtime, when the blossoms are in full flower and the air is scented with sweet olive. Having moved to Natchez from southern Maryland, I was quite unprepared for the rich, heady scent which drenches the town in the early spring. What might the tourist find to do in Natchez? Visiting old houses might not appeal to everyone, but there is good reason for it in Natchez. This city of about 20,000 people has an astonishingly rich architectural legacy. Indeed, Natchez was the richest town in America (per capita) in the 1840's. The Civil War put an end to the show, of course, but poverty managed to preserve what progress would have rent asunder. The result is a small town with over 500 pre-Civil War (or antebellum) buildings.
The Great Houses of Natchez
We might as well begin with what would have been one of the largest of them all, had it been completed. Longwood, also known as Nutt's Folly was begun before the Civil War by the eccentric Dr. Haller Nutt. Philadelphia architect Samuel Sloan's design for an "oriental villa" of 35 rooms was actually put into bricks and mortar, thanks to the profits from Dr. Nutt's vast cotton plantations. The house came within six months of completion and was abandoned, except for the basement floor. The family continued to live at Longwood, but the ghostly upper four floors were left unfinished.
Having been given to the Pilgrimage Garden Club, Longwood has been preserved as it was left, with its silver onion dome and finial crowning tiers of Byzantine arches and balconies. Had the mansion been finished, it would have been magnificent. As it stands today, perfectly preserved in its half-finished state, it's a great spot for parties. The club used to have Halloween parties there. I can remember my mother dressed as a mummy, rising out of a coffin for the amusement of the assembled guests... Longwood is definitely worth a look.
Melrose
Now part of the Natchez Historic Park, Melrose is a grand house on an heroic scale. If the house looks familiar, it has been used in several movies, including Beulah Land and others. The Callon family once owned the house, and I was once an overnight guest there. The scale of the place is quite a surprise. You really have no idea just how large the house is until you are inside. The ceilings are almost 18 feet high on the first floor.
Dunleith
Another house you have probably seen in the movies (including dreadful ones like Huckleberry Finn starring Jeff East and Harvey Korman) is Dunleith, a foursquare temple surrounded on all sides (with an allowance for an ell in the rear of the house) by Tuscan columns. The house is now an inn, but it was occupied by a succession of families in recent years. Some say the house was cursed in some way, as grim incidents happened to a number of the recent owners. I think you could safely stay there without having anything horrible happen....at least I think so...
Green Leaves
One of the smaller mansions, this Greek temple of a house is set on a hill in the middle of town. A friend of mine and his family lived in one wing, his ancient and forbidding aunts lived in the main house. While architecturally handsome, the main house was always a bit creepy. Playing there was almost like playing on the porch of the Radley house in To Kill A Mockingbird.
The Van Court Town House
"This is my house and I won't have it destroyed!!" Thus spake Mrs. R., the mistress of this splendid old house as my friends and I (lively children? spoiled brats?)
were merrily engaging in acts of mass destruction. We sheepishly came to the edge of the huge stairway and peered down at her, wondering what she could have seen in that old Louis the whatever chair anyway. If it wasn't the mistress of the house we were running from, it was Fere and Lettie, the two live-in housekeepers who always threatened to lock us up in the old refrigerators in the servant's quarters. I'm happy to report that Mrs. R is still in full command of her house.
Magnolia Hall
This Greek Revival beauty was just down the street from our house. Built in 1857 by Thomas Henderson, the house had been turned into a private school. I attended classes there through the third grade. There's nothing like having an enormous metal fire escape to slide down to recess...Fortunately, this great house has been completely restored. Tours are available, and there are overnight guest rooms as well.
Auburn
One of the earlier architecturally significant houses, Auburn was built in 1812. Its late-Georgian/Federal lines speak of a slightly different sensibility than the great columns of power of the later houses. Auburn's delicate lines are a hint of the grace within. Perhaps one of the finest winding staircases in America lies within these mellow brick walls. My most powerful memories of Auburn are of walking in Duncan Park, the city park surrounding the house. Being a new transplant from Maryland, I had never encountered fire ants before. Walking obliviously through the grass in short pants and without shoes, I was soon to discover the treachery of fire ants. The fiendish little beasts were all over me before I had realized what they were. If you are walking in the park and see a reddish mound in your path, do stay away.
Stanton Hall
Built in 1858, Stanton Hall is another much-photographed house. Its builder, Frederick Stanton, an Irish immigrant (a transPlanter, perhaps?) who'd made a fortune on cotton, wanted to show off his newfound wealth. Unfortunately, he died before the place was completed. After serving as a girl's college, an inn, among other things, it was restored by the Pilgrimage Garden Club and serves today as their headquarters. The pool behind the house is still there, surrounded by towering oaks and wisteria. Even if you can't swim there, it's well worth seeing the house.
Trinity Church
How could I not mention this handsome old church? My Dad was the Associate Rector here and I spent many hours inside. The church is a fairly straightforward stone Greek temple (1822). Originally, the church was topped with an impressive dome, but this was blown off in a storm some time in the 1840's. The church is in good repair today and is open to visitors. Just don't try to join and think you'll get invited to all the best cocktail parties in town. This takes time.
Our house was just behind the church on Washington Street. An 1897 brick Victorian, it was built by photographer Henry C. Norman, chronicler of early 20th century Natchez. The house is still there, though it is now used as offices and meeting rooms for the church.
Hotels
If you haven't been invited to stay overnight in someone's mansion, you can always stay in one of them and just pretend you have. It's almost as fun. The best in town for this purpose is probably Monmouth, an imposing brick and stucco palace built in 1818 and later owned by General John Quitman. Ron and Lani Riches swooped in from Los Angeles to save this crumbling pile a number of years ago and have turned it into one of the most lavish small hotels in the country. Staying here won't cost too much, though (the most expensive rooms and suites are still under $300.00). The setting is almost as impressive as the house, a pristine park with great oaks and secluded allees for courting, if that's what you had in mind.
The Eola Hotel still reigns over Pearl and Franklin Streets like a grande dame, even if the effects of a facelift by architect Charles Moore are starting to wrinkle again. This is still an interesting place to stay. A seven storied brick hotel from the 1920's, the Eola had an unusual post-modern makeover in 1982. The best rooms are on the sixth floor, overlooking the spectacular serpentine curve of the Mississippi.
There are the usual motels, including an ugly six storied box, built as a Sheraton. Now it is owned by the only casino in town, the Isle of Capri. The rooms are standard, but you might get lucky and get a river view.
Another property, the very boring Ramada Inn has been purchased by a casino developer, Charles Cato. He plans to renovate (demolition is a better idea) the Ramada and build a huge casino here. He's also bought the Briars, a bed and breakfast place where Jefferson Davis was married to Varina Howell in 1845. only those with lots of casino markers will get to stay in the rooms here when Cato is done with the place.
Restaurants
Possibly he best dining room in town is the beguiling courtyard at Monmouth (see above). Dinner is served here most evenings, but they haven't yet opened it up on a full-time basis. Failing that, one might head down under the hill to the Cock of he Walk for bottomless tin plates of fried catfish. So you hate catfish. Try this stuff anyway. It's all farm-raised and doesn't really taste like fish (isn't that what your mother told you anyway?). The fried dill pickles are a kick too.
A curiosity on he outskirts of town is Mammy's Cupboard, a roadside diner from the 1930's built in the shape of, what else, a mammy. In the interest of political correctness, she's been altered a little bit, with earrings and an indeterminate paint job, but you can't escape the meaning of the place any way you look at it. However politically incorrect, it is still an authentic piece of roadside Americana.
If you are looking for old fashioned Southern comfort food, head up to the Carriage House at Stanton Hall. Fried chicken, tomato aspic and tiny wafer-like biscuits drenched in butter are the specialties of the house. It's really a Southern experience, despite the hordes of tourists in the spring. At other times, you will find more local people than tourists.
Pilgrimage Etc.
The famed Spring Pilgrimage is held each year in early March. there is also a Fall Pilgrimage. Many of the houses are open throughout the year, but you may wish to call ahead. One ticket will generally get you into many of the houses. If you are not into old buildings, well you might find something to do here. There are a number of antique stores downtown, as well as a revived shopping district. Nightlife is fairly limited, but the casino and the bars under the hill have seen to it that the city is not without something of its rowdy past.
The city has embarked upon an expansion of their convention center and is making plans for a new convention hotel. Details of this project have yet to be released.
Getting There
Without a car, you are going to have some trouble getting to Natchez. There is an airport, but it has been years since Andrew Peabody's SCAT airlines has been flying. These days, the closest airports are in Jackson (1 1/2 hours away) and Baton Rouge (also about an hour and a half). I suppose there is bus service of some kind. Highway 61, the Highway of the Blues, cruises right through Natchez, so this might be a good point from which to begin or end your Blues Pilgrimage.
If you have bags of money and want to arrive like Mark Twain, the Delta Queen, the American Queen and the Mississippi Queen make infrequent stops at Natchez, but this can be a pleasant, if expensive, way to visit.
Natchez, Mississippi
http://www.aquaculture.com/
Odd web address, isn't it?
For another look at Natchez, read this terrific piece by Howard Creech...
http://www.epinions.com/content_71430540932
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 688
Trusted by: 444 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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