Vieques: The Controversial Caribbean Isle
Written: Aug 04 '00 (Updated Aug 04 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Uncrowded. Beautiful. Great swimming.
Cons: Justifiable local unhappiness with the U.S.
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| michrichmond's Full Review: Puerto Rico |
What small Caribbean island is rumored to have the highest rate of cancer in the U.S. and the largest number of undetonated mines? What U.S. commonwealth seeks to sever its relations with Uncle Sam, who is considered by many locals to be an evil empire of the old colonial order? What unassuming patch of land has the some of the most pristine and untouristed beaches you'll find anywhere in the Caribbean? Where can you get an amazing hamburger and a cold beer while gazing out at a turquoise sea, all for about ten bucks?
Vieques, for many years Puerto Rico's underrated isle, is truly a land of contradictions.
If you've paid any attention to the news the past few months, you know that the locals are sick of the U.S. Navy dropping bombs in the their back yard. Who can blame them? There is much evidence to support their claims that military activity is responsible for the inordinately high rate of cancer among civilians. Navy planes flying over the island disturb the peace and serve as a constant reminder of the islanders' lack of political clout.
On the other hand, it might also be argued that the Naval presence is in some measure responsible for the fact that Vieques hasn't succumbed to the ugly highrises, inflated prices, and inescapable crowds that plague most of the islands in the Caribbean. With so much of the island under the control of the U.S. government, the mega-developers who have littered Puerto Rico with monster resorts and tacky tourist attractions haven't managed to get a foothold on Vieques. Which means that, despite all the controversy and the questions about what is to become of Vieques, it is, in many ways, the kind of island paradise that travelers dream of.
I've seen beaches in Italy, Portugal, Hong Kong, Scotland, Iceland, and Hawaii. I've lived on three different U.S. coasts--the East, the West, and the Gulf. But I've never seen beaches like the ones I saw in Vieques. Here you'll find golden sand edging crescent-shaped lagoons, where you can wade out into warm turquoise waters, nary a rip tide in sight. "So what," you may say. Such beaches exist all over the Caribbean. The difference here, though, is that you can spend an entire day on one of these beaches without seeing another soul.
And despite the locals' justifiable disdain for the Navy, I found the people of Vieques to be very friendly to travelers. There are plenty of midrange restaurants, and if you're not a picky eater, the local food carts offer some delicious and cheap fare.
The best place to stay on Vieques is Inn on the Blue Horizon, which boasts postcard-perfect views and a lovely restaurant overlooking the water. If you're looking for something less pricey, there are several "bed and breakfasts" that offer rooms for under $100 per night. Several, however, promise breakfast but then look at you as if you're crazy when you ask for it, so be sure to find out over the telephone when you book your room if "breakfast" is a euphemism for "go out and find your own."
If you go to Vieques, you absolutely must go kayaking in the bioluminescent bay. Go at night when the moon is just a sliver, slide into the warm dark water, and watch your body light up like one of those characters in The Abyss. You can go by boat rather than kayak, but doing so is noisier and less interesting than the guided kayak trip, which lasts about an hour.
Since there is really very little to do on the island and the sun is intense, three days is probably enough, after which you might want to check out the attractive old city of San Juan on the main island.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
michrichmond
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Member: Michelle Richmond
Location: San Francisco CA
Reviews written: 2
Trusted by: 0 members
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