A romantic long weekend in Rome
Written: Nov 17 '99 (Updated Nov 17 '99)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Scenery, architecture, romance, scooters and food.
Cons: Can feel too tourist-oriented and expensive if you're not careful.
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| illuminatrix's Full Review: Rome |
While Rome wasn't built in a day, it is possible to enjoy many of its fruits in a long, romantic weekend - and with a little research and planning, you can even do it on a budget.
We flew from New York City to the DaVinci airport on Alitalia, and as has been typical of every experience on that airline, we had no problems and no delays. Rome's airport is not in Rome, however -- it's in the nearby town of Fiumicino -- so unless you've got money to burn on the $60 cab ride into the city, take the train. It runs every 20 minutes or so, until midnight.
The Hotel Pensione Parlamento was our temporary home in Rome, and I can recommend it highly, with no hesitation whatsoever. It's small, impeccably clean, and centrally located in the historical center of the city: smack-dab between the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. Rooms have private baths, televisions and phones, and the hotel also has a lovely rooftop garden where, in good weather, breakfast is served. There is also a small room off the lobby where guests can enjoy their coffee and morning rolls, as well as conversation with the staff and fellow guests. The charming gentleman who runs the hotel speaks enough English to be extraordinarily helpful to his guests, and seems to truly love his business. I found it to be reasonably priced at around $100 a night. I phoned ahead for reservations, and unlike some pensiones, which require a cash (or money order) deposit to be mailed in advance, a credit card number held our room.
We spent our first few days in the Eternal City exploring on foot - from the Spanish Steps down to the Coliseum, to the magnificent ruins of the Forum and back again. The excavation of the ruins is absolutely fascinating, and visitors are welcome to explore much of them with little restriction. The Coliseum itself is astounding, and worth the small admission price to wander around inside. (Guided tours are an option, but not necessary by any means.)
The Piazza Rotonda is a perfect place to rest your feet and enjoy an espresso while people-watching and taking in the architecture of the Pantheon. Two outdoor cafes afford this view: one, a traditional Roman café; the other a McDonald's. (Personally, I suggest the former!) The Piazza Navona is another great spot for relaxed people-watching.
On the recommendation of some well-traveled friends, we devoted a day to wandering around the Trastavere, a neighborhood across the river from the central part of the city. We ate at a number of wonderful, small, family-run restaurants there, which were a welcome alternative to the tourist-oriented eateries in the main part of town. Enjoy a long walk over the river, or take a cab across to the Trastavere and then just wander. I promise you, you'll discover a perfect place for dinner, with great Italian food at reasonable prices, and an authentic atmosphere that can't be beat.
Restaurants can be tricky in central (tourist) Rome - they often have people shilling outside, inviting you in, and with the waiter's enthusiastic flurry of suggestions and "chef's specialties", you can end up being served far more food than you ever intended. Know what you want, and be steadfast! We were burned exactly once, when all we wanted was a quick, shared dinner the night we arrived. When the bill came, we found that we'd spent almost $80! We should have known better, and we never made that mistake again. Another option, especially on your first days in the city as you're getting used to things, are the "cafeteria-style" restaurants. These aren't just for tourists -- there are plenty of Romans getting their lunches as well -- but if you don't speak Italian or are just getting acclimated after your arrival, this can be an easy (and cheap!) option.
Rome's streets are narrow and twisty; perfect for the ubiquitous scooters. If I've one single recommendation to anyone visiting Rome, it's to rent a scooter! They're available just about everywhere for not more than $50 a day -- even less if you get them for a couple of days at once. Particularly if your visit is only for a few days, this is definitely the way to experience Rome. Cars and busses are tolerant and share the roadway, and we saw so much more of the city than we ever could have on foot. Fire up your Vespa and put away your map, because you won't need it anymore: explore the hundreds of meandering little alleyways, let yourself get lost in the mazes of hidden piazzas. Stop for coffee and sustenance at any of the charming little cafes and live like an Italian for a few hours. We spent an afternoon back over in the Trastavere with the scooters, and from there, the view of the city is astounding.
The Via Veneto was our destination for dinner on our last night in Rome -- Valentine's Day -- and in this posh neighborhood you'll find plenty of wonderful, romantic restaurants (without the traps I described earlier). The Via Veneto is only a short walk from the Trevi Fountain, so don't forget to toss a coin into the fountain before you leave! We did, hoping to ensure a return to Rome, as is the tradition, and wouldn't you know -- it worked!
We missed our flight home the next day and ended up heading back into the city, back to our hotel, for one extra night in Rome.
Hotel Pensione Parlamento:
Via delle Convertite
00187 Roma
tel: +(39) 06.679.2082
fax: +(39) 06.699.21006
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
illuminatrix
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Location: New York City
Reviews written: 10
Trusted by: 27 members
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