Robbie Burns, Alloway, and the Brig o' Doon
Written: Apr 01 '01 (Updated Nov 17 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Postcard perfect Scottish village
Cons: Little known outside Burns circles
The Bottom Line: Alloway is a must-see for admirers of Robert Burns and is highly recommended for anyone who senses a hint of magic in the words "Brig o' Doon."
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| DAnneC's Full Review: Scotland |
On a cold January day in 1759, the wee bairn who would become Scotland's great national poet was born in a thatched-roof cottage in the Ayrshire village of Alloway. Robert Burns (1759-1796), the eldest son of William and Agnes Burnes (the spelling used by the family before 1786), was actually born in the kitchen--no doubt the warmest spot in the house on that blustery winter day. Today, Burns' admirers can still visit the same cottage and the same kitchen, restored as near as possible to their original state.
The continuing popularity of Burns' work and the imagery depicted by his forthright, down-to-earth use of language have made Alloway a required stop for those doing pilgrimage to "Burns Country." In addition to the cottage where the poet spent the first seven years of his life, visitors will find--
~ a museum containing numerous letters, manuscripts, first editions, and Burns family treasures;
~ the graves of William and Agnes Burnes in the old Alloway churchyard;
~ the gracefully structured Burns Memorial, completed in 1823;
~ and the Tam o' Shanter Experience, a depiction of one of the beloved Robbie's best-known poems.
All these attractions are managed under the auspices of the Burns National Heritage Park (call 011-44-1-292-443700 for further information).
The village of Alloway itself is almost picture perfect--far more so, one suspects, than when the Burnes family actually dwelt there. The homes and public buildings are well tended and surrounded by pleasant "gardens" in the British manner. Alloway's "skyline" is in fact dominated by the Burns Monument, which is handsomely situated on high ground and surrounded by its own elaborate garden. The monument is located near the auld brig o' Doon (the old bridge over the River Doon), which was memorialized by Burns' verse. Happily for visitors, the solidly graceful and altogether ancient lines of the auld brig are easily visible from the new bridge (not all that new, mind you) used by the roadway to cross the river.
For those seeking refreshment or overnight accommodations in Alloway, the handsome Brig o' Doon Hotel stands watch in yet another gorgeous garden, this one actually spread out along the banks of the Doon. Strategically located between the two bridges, the hotel includes a charming tearoom that I can personally recommend. The food and drink are scrumptious (I heartily recommend the carrot soup), the service is pleasant and efficient, and the decor is a careful balance between unpretentiousness and stalwart prosperity.
I admit that my "discovery" of Alloway was not my own at all. I was taken to do homage to Burns by a local friend. Once there, I found the Burns attractions themselves moderately interesting, but I loved Alloway. And this love of place was entirely different from anything else I've experienced in Scotland. Without castles, standing stones, or famous golf courses to peak my interest, I fell in love with Alloway because of its genteel exterior and the hint of mystery that the very words "Brig o' Doon" evoke. On the banks of the River Doon and in the shadow of the Burns Monument, it was a magic more suggestive of the Lerner and Loewe musical that caught and held my fancy.
Whatever the magic that attracts you to this special place, you'll certainly be glad you took the time to visit. Alloway is located just off the A77 south of Ayr along the southwest coast of the Scottish mainland. Glasgow is about an hour's drive to the north.
Recommended:
Yes
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DAnneC
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Location: Small Town America
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About Me:
Loves history, travel, gardens, and words in general
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