Holy Toledo, Batman! What a city!
Written: Jul 12 '08 (Updated Jul 22 '08)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Ancient, medieval & religious history; architecture; desserts
Cons: Confusing + winding + hilly alleyways = easy to get lost
The Bottom Line: A great day trip destination for visitors to Madrid or Castilla-LaMancha.
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| annalin's Full Review: Toledo |
Toledo, Spain is a beautiful old city picturesquely situated on the north bank of the Tagus River, about 44 miles south of Madrid. This UNESCO World Heritage City served as the capital of Spain as early as the 4th century BC and most recently from 1085 to 1560, when the capital was moved to the present day capital of Madrid. As it is surrounded on 3 sides by the Tagus River and sits atop a hill, Toledo is both beautiful to view from afar and those situated in Toledo can take advantage of spectacular views of the river and countryside.
Due to its Roman, Visigothic, Moorish, and medieval Christian history, there are many things for tourists to see in the city. Many of them relate to religious themes, as at various times Toledo has been dominated by Muslims, Jews, and currently, Catholics. Also, Toledo was famous hundreds of years ago for its skilled crafts of damascening (inlaid gold placed into darkly oxidized steel) and sword and knife making (cuchilleria).
Religious Sites
Cathedral
Toledo’s main cathedral, began in 1221, is visible throughout the city. Its imposing stone Gothic façade looks deceptively cramped form the outside. Once you find your way (confusingly) to the main entrance, buy an entrance ticket at the little trailer outside and get ready to marvel. The architecture and artwork is magnificent even for non-Christians. The Sacristy inside – a hidden bonus for me - features a mini art gallery with many El Greco works, along with a Goya and others. No photos are allowed inside, and Secret Service lookalike men will follow visitors around to ensure they follow the rules. The Cathedral is definitely a must see.
Iglesia Santo Tome
This church houses El Greco’s masterpiece “The Burial of the Lord of Orgaz”.
Sinagogo el Transito
Plain looking on the outside, yet elaborately down in Mudejar style, this 14th century mosque is another must see in Toledo. It is famous for its blend of Islamic, Gothic, and Hebrew artistic styles. The Sephardic Museum inside the synagogue is worth a look for those interested in Judaism, history, and religious tolerance for which Toledo was renowned.
Architectural Sites
Puerta Bisagra
This city gate is the last one that still has its original 10th century military architecture. Alfonso VI and El Cid entered Toledo through this gate in 1085. The name Bisagra comes from the Arabic Bab-sagra, or “gate looking out onto the Sagra plain”.
Puente de Alcantara
Originally built by the Romans more than a thousand years ago to cross the Tagus River, this bridge is still sturdy enough to be used. You can take a nice photo of this bridge from the San Martin Bridge, or the more adventurous can walk down from the city of Toledo through the wall and on the Alcantara Bridge. There is a beautiful view to be seen from this the Alcantara Bridge
Toledo Train Station
As discussed below, you will most likely arrive via train at this lovely train station. Built in the 1920’s in Mudejar style, it is airy, elegant and beautiful. Don’t miss the high ceilings, stained glass windows, and patterned tile. If you didn’t know it, you would think it was built even earlier than the 20's.
Other Sites
Toletum
The original Roman name of the city was Toletum. Today, there is a modern visitor’s center sharing this name. If you hop on the bus at the train station, the first stop will be Toletum. You can use the nicely appointed facilities here, get a map of the city, or enter a for fee exhibit and movie space.
Alcazar
Originally a Roman fort, the Moors later used the Alcazar, which was later rebuilt as the residence of the conquering Christian King Alfonso VI. Most recently the Alcazar is known for being the Nationalist holdout during the bloody Spanish Civil War. It also contains the Spanish Military Museum and the Museum of Knives and Swords.
Eating
Marzipan candies…delights made of that tasty almost paste…are a must for visitors to Toledo. El Café de las Monjas (The Nuns Café) is a stylish modern dessert and coffee spot which sells packaged marzipan goods made by the nuns and also fresh desserts and pastries to enjoy with your cappuccino. There are a few local watering holes, and also a McDonald’s (but why bother?).
Getting There & Getting Around
If you are brave, you can rent a car and drive to Toledo. The highway to reach it is in good repair. However, I guarantee you will get lost on the hilly, twisting alleyways in the city proper trying to find your way to your overnight lodging, and will have trouble finding parking in the city. You can park in a lot outside the city and walk a good ways across the Tagus River Bridge and up to the city itself.
For visitors coming from Madrid (most likely the majority of tourists), you can take a bus or the train. The bus takes longer than the train, and the train is not expensive, so I recommend the RENFE high-speed train from Atocha station. Be sure to buy your tickets at least a few hours in advance, if not a day in advance, to guarantee yourself a seat. You actually have to buy it from a ticket counter inside the station and there is typically a “take a number and sit down” wait.
Overall Thoughts
Toledo is a magical, medieval city that seems to be largely frozen in time. It transports you to a different world and a different era. It is definitely worth a half day or full day of your time if you are in the vicinity. Simply go and wander around the beautiful hilly cobblestone alleys of the old city. This day trip from Madrid is a welcome change of pace.
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Other Spain Reviews
Madrid, Spain
Madrid Hotel: Petit Palace Arenal
Madrid Guidebook
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Thanks for reading!
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
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Epinions.com ID:
annalin
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 in Hotels & Travel |
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Reviews written: 202
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A generally happy and optimistic, yet opinionated gal...
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