Stepping Back In Time........
Written: Mar 02 '00 (Updated Apr 08 '07)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Good Sights, Good Food ,Interesting Time
Cons: Hot In summer, Cold In Winter!!
The Bottom Line: A great place to take a step back in time!
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| Melaney's Full Review: Toledo |
About an hours drive South from Madrid you can find a place to go back in time. Its name is Toledo and it is a city that seems to have been untouched by time. Things stand still here yet at the same time , also move on.
When you first arrive at Toledo , you will notice the alleys that are so tiny in width that you wonder how anyone can fit their car through them. You can fit through them but just barely because Spain's cars are much smaller than say , the average American automobile.
On your way into Toledo you will have noticed the nice countryside and different hills and farms along the way. You will also notice a massive rock formation on which this city sits and the Alcazar..which was an integral part of the the Spanish Civil War.
It is a city filled with history of War and of many different occupants from many different eras. This place was inhabited as far back as prehistoric times and was also occupied by the Romans in 192BC , the Moors , Mozarabs and the Jewish. Their influence architecturally can be noticed here to this day.
Like many cities in Spain not too much has changed. The Spanish like to keep some of it's ties with previous occupants rather than just destroy and rebuild.
You will pass over the Puente de Alcantara the oldest of the towns bridges which was built by the Romans this carries you over the gorge which when looked down upon is very deep and not filled with water. I dont recommend it for someone afraid of heights.
Moving along to the main attraction at least the reason why many people go to Toledo , it is called the Alcazar, a massive castlelike building that sits on the top of this huge rock mass and it is where the happenings of the Spanish Civil War took place.
I cant tell you how many times Ive been inside this structure because its been so many. I guess whenever I am in Toledo I never get tired of visiting this place that holds so much history.
This building has not even ever been fully restored , as you glance at it you can see some of the mortar shell damage in parts of the walls. That is, the ones that were left still standing (mostly all of this structure was destroyed).It had to be rebuilt due to the massive damage almost all of the outside of it was lost.
The inside is like a maze of tunnels that are a little bit chilly because they are underground but above are the offices and regular rooms . One of these offices was the headquarters of General Moscardo whom was leader of the Nationalists and he defended the building from the Republicans. The Nationalists were able to hold on to this place and also in one of the rooms where his office is/was it has been left in the state of dismay just like time stands still.
When you walk into this room the remnants of what a bomb did to it still remains untouched. The peeling paper hanging down over your head from the ceiling and the mortar holes gives an eerie feeling to be there because its like something you could only perhaps read about in a book or see in some movie on television.
Moving along to back to the tunnels ,there are a maze of rooms and one of them holds antique style hospital beds made of hay and operating tables half broken and strangely medieval .
Another room is just a cold and dark looking place, its floor of stone somewhat slanted. To read the plaque that is inscribed above it gives a sense of rebirth . It says something to the fact that during the battle there were two births in the actual room. I stand there in wonderment wondering how these women were able to do so considering the circumstances and the stress of the situation.
At the end of a long tunnel is yet another room where the people stayed eating just rations of bread and water per day . This room held a lot of importance to the people inside this place because in this room they placed a statue of the blessed Virgin Mary and prayed to her for their safety. The odd thing about it all is that they could hear the diggers tunneling their way to set charges coming closer every day but yet somehow they were protected in this room.
The 70 people left survived due to the help of Francisco Franco's troops arrival. The rest of the story or rather the more in detail you can see for yourself one day if you choose to visit this place.
The hours in which to visit are from Tuesday through Sunday 9:30 am to 1:30pm and 4:00 to 6:30pm.
Some other places to see while in Toledo is the wonderful and beautifully crafted Swords that are one of a kind. They can be found in most all of the souvenir shops in the central part of the city. All of them are hand crafted and some have been used for some of the modern day films such as Conan the Barbarian, Hercules, Zena ; Warrior Princess (her hair extensions even come imported from Spain , some of the finest horse hair are used for them).
Another must is to see how they make what is called Damascene(an art form of tapping the best gold wire into carvings that are all done by hand. This work of art is done in jewelry as well as frames and pillboxes. A black background with beautiful doves and flowers is the most popular form you will see of this. Toledo is the only place in the world to find this beautiful jewelry and frames , etc
Only once did I catch a special on the QVC network carrying a very limited number of pieces.
For eating out..there are plenty of local little restaurants also to be found along the alleys and most of the house specialties are Potato soup to any kind of Carne (meat dish). Goat's leg is a particular specialty.
Feel free to wander it is the best way to discover and get around within Toledo because if you try by car you will find yourself getting lost amidst the mazes of alleys.
A few other places to see once you have finished your other sight-seeing is to check out the art work of El Greco which can be found at the Museo de la Santa Cruz (10:00 to 6:30), a former hospital.
The Town Hall ,just an elegant building that was finished by El Greco's son is also a nice place to see.
There is also El Greco's home ( hrs ; 9:30am to 1:00pm and 4:00pm to 6:30pm) which you can visit but supposedly a fake ,a nice fake to see though.
An interesting convent church to visit is the church of San Juan de Los Reyes it was erected by former King and Queen Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain to be their burial place. Visiting hours are 10:00am to 2:00pm and 3:30pm to 7:00pm daily.
A must for any art lover. Toledo is a place that has museums and such but you will notice that when visiting Toledo or any other similar Spain city somewhat is that a good pair of walking shoes will take you far! You will see the sights that no book can tell you .
The architecture is very interesting to anyone who may be studying the various forms and styles of ancient civilization . This trip can be taken by bus or by car.
I can give a few tips to you all who may go here for a visit.
Be sure to check times on entry to any museum as sometimes the hours change. Also try to be the first one there as lines can be a frustration.
I can say this trip is best for just a weekend to maybe three days .
Please dress warmly if going in the Winter since not all of Spain is so warm!
Do make the Alcazar a priority on your list it is the main and best attraction to see in this city.
Casual wear is fine to enter these establishments although taking pictures is not always allowed, bring a camcorder. They fear the paint from pictures especially can wear down from flashes.
Be sure to dress comfortable and in summer it is very hot so have some bottled water with you. Enjoy your visit!
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID: Melaney
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Reviews written: 23
Trusted by: 87 members
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