Hidden Treasures in North Beach
Written: Jan 25 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Lot's of good eating
Cons: Watch your wallet in the evening
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| MotherWestWind's Full Review: North Beach |
I grew up in San Francisco, born 1949, and from the first moment I could walk my mother and grandmother took me on long walks through the city. One of our most favorite places to go was North Beach. During the 1950's and early 60's North Beach was famous for it's Italian Restaurants, SF's Little Italy. Before the Go-Go dancers of the 60's and the Silicone Babes took over Broadway the street had clubs where one could go to see a show and not be bombarded with Nudes, Nudes, Nudes. It was very exciting and the food was great.
When I was 13 (1963) and allowed to wander on my own I would head to North Beach like a magnet and wander around Upper Grant Avenue to see the shops, coffee houses and quietly "gawk" at the Beatniks. It was a magical place to be. Enrico's Coffee House on Broadway was a pleasant place to go and if you sat in the corner you could see all kinds of poets and writers and artists wander in for their afternoon fix of coffee.
This past New Year's Eve I took my daughter to North Beach to say good-bye to the old year and my memories. We traced the route of my former footsteps by walking Upper Grant Avenue, peering in the windows of the small shops that still were there but I was saddened to see that some of my favorite haunts were gone. Savoy Tivoli was closed, which had the theater in the back where one night in 1970 I and my date watched an avant garde movie festival some shorts that were only 5 minutes long. I still remember the one of the guy in a boat at twilight looking kinda of nervous as the water gradually became more and more choppy till finally a huge monsterlike image of Neptune the God of the Sea came screaming and raging out at him. As the guy floundered around in the boat looking sooooo scared the announcer's voice said "Thinking of taking Acid? Think again". hahahhahahahahahhaha It was the precursor to those "this is your brain, (drop an egg in a hot pan), this is your brain on drugs (as the eye fries)". I think the first one I saw was much more effective in it's scare tactics.
My daughter and I wandered around and found a wonderful restaurant called The Bodega, which miraculously had survived since the 60's. Spanish food and Flamenco Dancing. We dined on tapas of prawns sauteed in olive oil and garlic while watching the dance troupe clickity click their way through their act. My daughter was entranced.
North Beach has changed somewhat but has still maintained it's reputation for good food. While we were wandering around we saw lots of wonderful smelling restaurants that given another night we would have liked to sat and dined. The billboard on Broadway and Grant no longer has Carol Doda gracing it's face but images of some great jazz players instead. I hear tell there are some wonderful jazz clubs hidden amongst the back alleys as well as still some great coffee houses filled with atmosphere. Grant Avenue may have lost it's attraction to the tourist trade but the rest of the area has bloomed. Oh and check out Jack Kerowac (spelling) avenue and City Lights Bookstore - you'll find some publications there that you won't find anywhere else. City Lights Bookstore was one of the first underground bookstores in the SF Bay Area. There are also some Bed and Breakfasts in the area - check out the phone book. You'll be able to find a room for $65 a night!!!
Oh and I forgot to mention there are two beautiful Churches in the area. Saint Peters and Paul is on the Square and hidden on a side street is another lovely Catholic church with tall spires and gorgeous stain glass windows. That church was having a midnight mass to pray in the new year but we left SF before the crowds and celebrated at quiet marina of Sausalito.
So when you go to San Francisco make sure you head to North Beach where all the beat poets and artists had their inspirations and perhaps you too will walk away with some inspiration. Oh and watch your wallet, there are thieves abound and don't forget to dress in layers, sometimes the fog creeps in and brrrrrrrr it's suddenly cold.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
MotherWestWind
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Member: Beth-Katherine Kaiman
Location: Clearlake, CA
Reviews written: 87
Trusted by: 87 members
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